from Leirufjörður to Höfðaströnd, 15,9 km

Some drizzle in the morning that finishes before breakfast.
I cross the bridge and find traces of motorized transport on the other side. Decide to trust them and move diagonally across the valley, along drier spots. Glacier comes closer. So in the end I still end up doing almost as the captain recommended. Before bigger water the traces disappear. Water is again freezing and this time muddy. Can't see the ground but have to test it with walking stick by each step. It's not very deep though. On the other side is a cool waterfall that I can now photograph up close. Already before the end of water I started to notice footprints, someone has done the same. When I'm at last again on the same line with the house it has taken me five kilometers. And directly across from the house it looks really walkable, even I'd manage it. But I won't go back to try.
Sun has come out and life is a flower. I sit on a stone for snack and see how water rushes towards the river. After some while the area that was fine for walking has turned into sea. Wow.
Will now at last everything be easy or has Icelandic nature still some trick in its sleeve?
A few houses ahead. Here is a lot of civilization. Some people at one house, dog comes to sniff me and the houselady to excuse because of this. Oh, she thought that I was a foreigner. Well, I am a foreigner. I get compliments for language and for walking, she worries if I'm not cold in the night or maybe in need of something. I have more or less all that I need.
Out of the protective bay is strong wind that has blown apart all the clouds. A sign promises a roundlooking point and from there it is possible to see many of the fjords of Hornstrandir: Hrafnfjörður, Lónafjörður, Veiðileysufjörður and Hesteyrarfjörður. Leirufjörður of course too but this is not Hornstrandir anymore. Bicycle tracks.
Some routine river wadings. The water that doesn't come from a glacier now feels soft and nice. It's also very clear and rivers are full of colorful stones. An eagle evaluates it he could carry me away. Luckily I have a big bag.
The trail here is broad and goes fast. Soon it's time to look for a camping place. I stay next to the trail, near an abandoned house, with a view to Lónafjörður.
Soup, laundry, reading. Finish Salka Valka. Enough of sitting inside, I go for a walk. Wander along the beach and collect stones. Bag is lighter now. Unfortunately empty batteries and read book don't weigh less than before but become ballast. Hrafnfjörður and Lónafjörður have been stuffed with clouds. Einbúi has disappeared.
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from Hrafnfjörður to Leirufjörður, 12,1 km
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