from Kavastu to Piirissaar

In the morning I call Ruben to ask where can I transfer accommodation price. Of course I don’t have enough cash to leave the payment on the fridge.
It is nice and warm outside. I put less clothes on, later take some off and put some on. Wind is cold.
Kavastu boat man arrives after a phone call on bicycle. A different man, younger and fatter than the guy who got me across Emajõgi river last time. Cyclists and pedestrians go across in a boat, the ferry is not bothered. For some reason we paddle so that backside of the boat is in front.
In Kastre is still the sign warning sign of old people and bus stop that is open to all weather. From here I continue directly to Võnnu. There is a shop. I buy some more food just in case. According to different sources the shop on the island is and is not open.
Then to Lääniste and along gravel road towards Ahunapalu. Midway is Järvselja where are especially tall trees. In Liispõllu a sign announces cycle trails and campsites. An old forest besides that. Again a reason to come back.
The gravel feels sticky and wind operates as hand brake. Wind is especially bad in open spaces but these days our forests are so sketchy that they as well let wind through. I have a picnic sitting on logs. Have to make some use of them. Forest smells and butterflies fly around me.
Unexpectedly I’ve entered Põlva county and old Võromaa.
I’m at Laaksaare harbor two hours ahead of time. Eat nuts and read. The ferry Koidula is in repair and there’s a smaller substitute vessel that does not take cars. The captain fits my bike in front of the ferry.
I have a chat with Valentina who works in the museum. Good, a visit has to be agreed with her anyway. Everybody else speaks Russian. No card payments on the substitute vessel. I ask a ticket for me and for the bike. Eeh, velosiped, mutters Maria who sells tickets and the bike gets a free ride.
Yesterday two toilets were taken to the island but not to the museum and the beach where people also need them but to the municipality house. Valentina promises to do something about it. As she promises to deal with the issue that Waterways Department ordered destroying sand martins’ nests from the ferry. All locals were used to them there, as were the sand martins. The birds have nowhere to nest anymore. Before the harbor walls were of sand but they are now filled with rocks. Valentina does not like the attitude that nature can be somewhere else. Next generations will have nothing left this way. That is right.
Piirissaar now belongs to Tartu municipality. Local business is discussed at 5 o’clock on Wednesdays in Tartu. The ferry to the island leaves at five. Next ferry goes on Friday. So that no islander could make his voice heard.
The shop on the island has prices with Piirissaare factor, everything being 1,5 to 2 times more expensive than in other places. The most expensive shop in Estonia.
A canal halves the island. Reminds me of Vignole. It is warm and beautiful on the island. Earlier it was allowed to camp at the municipality house and at the beach but Valentina is not sure now with the new people on power. On municipality house’s door is phone number of Toomas, the guardian of the island. He comes right away with bike and dog and shows me where to camp. On an airstrip but in the back in case the helicopter should arrive. Water comes from the well and toilets have to be instsalled yet so I have to use the old one. The phone has to be switched off from automatic network, otherwise it goes to Russian network which will be very expensive.
I walk around in the neighborhood and cook dinner.
Cycling today 54 km.

Veiga should have started kayaking around Iceland by now,
from Tammispää to Kavastu
resting day on Piirissaar

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