the summary

No mosquitoes, no horseflies, no heat, a lot of light and birdsong, many spring flowers. Nights are cold, of course, that is the only negative aspect of it. That’s why we walked long days, to reach the few huts and to avoid spending many hours sitting and freezing at the camp site.

During warmer time the walking days should be shorter to take it easier. And we had no rain, which is something I haven’t experienced before on my long hikes.

This is the fourth long hiking trail in Estonia and each next one has been better than the ones before. So this is the best for now (the next one coming up soon will be on Saaremaa). I like that it is mostly forest paths and not so much paved roads, except in the beginning and in the end. The landscape is quite varied with some military history.

The camp sites and huts can be used for free, except for rental huts that require a booking (like Leemeti). The ones that are free are used on the principle that everyone is welcome and everyone also cleans up after themselves. Locations can be seen on the RMK website (https://loodusegakoos.ee/where-to-go).

There’s everyone’s right in Estonia, except when you see a sign directly forbidding something. Legally, the private land (“eramaa” or “eravaldus”) signs are only informative but sometimes unfriendly people can lurk behind these. Not always. Generally, it is wise not to start picking an enormous amount of berries or setting up camp or making a fire on private land, especially when it is clearly signposted. And sometimes asking water from a household near the trail can end up with a nice conversation, useful tips or a surprise dinner.

Water is a problem on this trail. I have mentioned all places where we took water and it should be easier in summer when there are some cafes open along the trail. Otherwise, the only shop is in Kärdla. Normally running water is okay to drink, at least after boiling, unless it smells or if you have a very weak stomach. The small streams can be dry during summer though.

Trail information and GPS track: https://loodusegakoos.ee/where-to-go/hiking-route/heltermaa-ristna-sarve-hiking-route.

Ferry schedule: https://www.praamid.ee/en/hiiumaa-mainland/.

Rohuküla (the ferry port) can be reached either by car or by public bus: https://www.tpilet.ee/en/.