from Tallinn to Tõrvanina

We have a sort of forest war going on in Estonia.
Hiiumaa, the second biggest island, was supposed to be one of the places with most of its forest intact. Recently, however, rumors have started to circulate that the forest is not there anymore. So I went to check it out. Besides, Hiiumaa is a very cool place, a lot cooler that Saaremaa actually. Or so I think, no offence.
It rains on the way. Thick snow fog surrounds the road. Everybody on the ferry seems to know everybody else. No tourist goes to Hiiumaa on a misty Thursday evening in April.
We start in a single line through the grey thickness of the night towards Kärdla, the capital of Hiiumaa. On the first crossing the line splits like the tongue of a snake. No-one else goes beyond Kärdla. I’m heading towards Tõrvanina beach. There’s a RMK camping area. What my plan didn’t foresee is the ground being covered with wet ice sheet. Luckily the ice stops at one of the picnic tables. Setting up the tent, I discover that Hiiumaa is not only dark but also hard. I fall asleep to the distant sound of geese and swans and the sea breathing not far away.
from Tõrvanina to Metsapere

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