We find
breakfast three kilometres later in Costigliole d'Asti. A quick, sweet Italian
breakfast. Along the roadside there are hazel trees, peach
trees, grapevines, and cherry trees. Nothing is ripe yet, of course. The air
smells of grain or hay, unless the jasmine happens to take over. Common
nightingales are singing in the bushes. Out in the open it's magpies and
blackbirds. The poplars are wrapped in fluff once again. I don't know what the
deal is with poplars here, they all seem to grow in perfectly straight rows.
We approach
Castagnole delle Lanze with some apprehension. Will there be coffee and food,
or will everything be shut? At first glance the place seems deserted, but then
we see the town centre full of people wandering the streets with wine glasses
in hand. Music is thumping somewhere, and food is being served from stalls. We
find a restaurant around the corner and are presented with a giant plate
carrying a modest handful of ravioli. Ice cream for dessert. Then back on the
trail.
We battle our way
through some tall grass before descending into the Tanaro Valley. The river is
broad and a greyish blue. The valley floor is flat, and the road is wide and
gravelly. Now it's time to climb up to Barbaresco. There's a tower there. We
skip the tower and have sandwiches and salad instead. Sparrows dart back and
forth, squabbling with one another.
We cross another
valley, where rose bushes stand at the ends of the vineyard rows, pass an
abandoned railway line, and head straight over the next hill to our
accommodation. The sunset is purple.
Distance walked: 25
km.
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