Someone has walked his/her bear on the trail judging by the footprints.
The trail is muddy. Not as muddy as usually though because people have had water here up to their knees. The cabin is two kilometers through the forest from the car park. It has been exceptionally dry the last weeks and there's a general ban to make fire except in designated places. That's why I'll spend two nights at Varessaare and not move around in the area as I intended to. I don't want to set the bog on fire. The other reason for staying put is my knee that can just about handle walking on level ground without much load on my back.
I don't pay much attention to the bear footprints because I'm busy killing mosquitoes. They all all here.
Muraka bog is located in Ida-Virumaa, an area that is usually associated with Russians and mining. But it also contains some of the biggest wetlands and forests in Estonia. Some call Muraka bog the most beautiful bog of Estonia. Some say that Kakerdaja is the most beautiful. Matter of taste (I'd say it's Kodru bog...). Anyway, it is supposed to have the most diverse landscape of all bogs. Some places are so wet that you should not attempt crossing them alone. Lot of birds and berries here and different types of forest around the bog. Local nature celebrities Juhan Lepasaar, Edgar Kask and Fred Jüssi have made the bog famous. No wooden walkways here and certain areas are off-limits in the beginning of summer.
No-one at the cabin. The cabin has been freshly renovated but someone has already broken a window. Despite that it looks cozy and well equipped.
I have some water with me but not enough for two days. So I go to check if some of the bog pools are close. They are not. The bog glows in the light of setting sun and breathes out swarms of tiny black flies. Three tall spruces mark Varessaare as an aid to navigation. Well, one of the spruces is actually a pine.