early birds

Alarm sounds at half past four.
We’ve booked a sunrise bird watching tour to Noss. Noss is a small island on the other side of Bressay which is a small island opposite Lerwick. Instead of sunrise it’s thick cloud and so the views are no different than any light time of the day.
Some stops along the way to spot a porpoise, to look at young puffins and to give fish to great skuas. Noss is inhabited by birds, this time of year mostly by gannets. They cover the hole rockface. At lower levels are the young ones learning how to breed. The older ones shit on them.
We drive a bit away from the island, followed by a gang of gannets who know that now some fish is distributed. So gannets splash around, diving with loud thumps and fighting for fish. They’re so close that I could almost touch them. Biggest sea birds in Europe.
Back in Lerwick we find a place for breakfast and then go home to sleep.
Later we visit the bookshop, forget to book a place for dinner, manage to get a table at the French cafè and buy wine from the grocery shop. The cafè has no licence for selling alcohol but they know where you can buy some. We share our bottle with a Dutch guy next table. Otherwise solo eaters seem to leave their half-finished bottle here to come back later.
going home

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