trails of Amorgos

I take back what I said about non-existent beaches here. Further from Aegali village beach are three sandy beaches.

Today has been a pretty busy day. In cooperation with Greek trail masters things have also taken lot more time than they were supposed to.
I planned to combine trails 4 and 5. Together about 13 km. Nothing. Walking out of the village I land on trail no 1. The map is not very exact, especially when it comes to village streets. The map says that going a bit on trail no 1 I'll soon meet trail no 4. White arrows direct me to a chapel and then the arrows disappear. Trail disappears together with them. I continue in the same direction. Below the trail that I'm supposed to meet is visible. One time I have to climb down a steep wall, holding on to rocks and embracing a thorny bush so that I must pick the thorns out of my shirt later. Well I'm not going back. Surprisingly I meet the trail sooner and understand where I went wrong. The confusion arose due to the combination of different waymarks.
The sun is still on the other side of a big mountain. The landscape also contains trees. That means shadow. Next to the trail two small birds busy themselves in the bush.
The switch from trail no 4 to trail no 5 also creates some confusion but then I read the map superficially and wrong. I meet a drawing man. Trail no 5 leads to Kroukelos mountain that is the highest on the island with 812 meters. The mountain ridge on my right towers high and does not look like an average tourist could climb it. There are sheep, donkeys, goats, flies and a yellow butterfly. Near Ioannis Theologos church a shepherd chases goats along the mountainside, his dog pants in the shadow of a tree. The trail ascends higher and turns around a corner. This is the steeper side of the island. Views are impressive, wind gets strong and it is not clear where the trail leads me. I meet some solemn men with donkeys. On the other side of the big rock is Stavros chapel and such wind that could blow your camera away. The trail led here. I sit a bit in windshade. It's cold up here. Men with donkeys transport bags filled with gravel up the mountain. On my way down I meet a lot of French people.
At Ioannis Theologos the trail should continue on the other side of the church. The map has an unknown symbol there. The legend says it stands for 'unclear path'. But the trail is simply unmarked. Paths are many, goats have been busy with that. I consult the map to find out between which hills I have to go. Next way point is another chapel.
Far on the other side of the mountain is a building with a cross visible but this cannot be the right one. After some time the right chapel comes into view. Far below me. I've been walking too high up. Goats haven't been here much, I have to descend along sharp rocks with holes in them and thorny plants. Shins are scratched again. After climbing some fences I meet the probable trail. The diligent chapel-building is quite useful.
Loads of waymarks here, arrows, paint, ribbons, signs. I'm back on trail no 4 that has an extension to Mikri Vlichadha beach. It is located in a deep long bay, looks enchanting from above but is already in shade. I interrupt climbing down because the clock is many hours more than it should be. Instead I go and have a look at the beaches next to Aegali. I swim, finally eat my lunch, read and just lay there for about an hour. Sun starts to set.
The accommodation has understood my request not to change towels their own way. They have taken the towels away. Not changed them. Luckily the set of 'the other person' is still untouched on the cupboard.
I'm not hungry so I buy a beer and drink it on my balcony, looking at the changing colours of the evening sky. Feet are tired and shins sting. I underestimated this island. Should of had at least one more day.

sights of Amorgos

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