The morning is kind of slow and dizzy. Try to catch internet but it's uncatchable. Password is required and I have none. Don’t understand either if the hotel is in breakfast-mode or not.
I stumble around as long as a ferry comes in and lot of Germans with white shorts are unloaded. Damn, this should have been avoided.
Don’t spot Dimitris’ information booth and fail to get hold on bakery and drift out of Mandraki without breakfast. Well, homo sapiens is supposed to survive around 40 days without food if there’s water. Water I have. No worries.
At the beginning of the path I meet a man who asks me where I’m going, confirms that this is the right way, I should turn right and put a hat on. Hat I have. Trail description is written starting from the other end so the various monopatis are confusing. And I have to improve my Greek. The man must have said „turn right every time there is a possibility, even if it looks like a goat track“. On the other side of asfalt is a big lock on monopati and I join the path again after some curves.
Small monastery or chapel, after that some abandoned agricultural landscape and then I reach an amazing amphitheatre. All mountains have been terraced. One photo after every five steps, no guide could put up with this. Wonderful views. I’m not sure if all this makes up the absence of Lyn and Iain but I’ll have to manage with what’s available. I’d stay there until sunset if empty stomach and smell of dead goats wouldn’t force me to continue.
There’s a taverna with volcano view in Emborio. The Danes next table have a map of Nisyros, the same style as the Tilos’ map. They say they bought it in Mandraki but I forget to ask where exactly and if it was this year.
At the end of the village is a sauna. Like the real thing, heat coming straight from the volcano. Cool.
Nice monopati goes down until the trail disappears. It’s supposed to be like that, just from this side is a bit difficult to find the place where „from here continue without the path“. Can’t find the final stretch of monopati and arrive in Pali on asphalt. Somewhere should be the place with hotsprings and sitting on the rocks and seaweed but obviously I’ve forgot some details so I just go swimming. Sand is warm.
4 km from Pali back to Mandraki take 40 minutes.
The search for a map results in buying chocolate, fruits and locating three bakerys. Narrow streets, patches of light, colorful windowframes, lone bikers.
Internet is found in the office. I only have to turn out the light and close the door afterwards.
from Tilos to Nisyros

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