back in the province

Nan is the most uncertain place in the whole travel plan. It is not yet clear whether it will be more like Daksum or like Attapeu.

The beginning is promising. In the bus station people seem to believe that there is a direct bus to Nan and they even sell us tickets to it. The bus that should depart half past nine appears around the corner around 10:30. People are counted many times. One is missing but is soon found from the neighborhood.
First time during our bus travels here we run out of asphalt. It re-appears after a while. Bus climbs up the hill with great effort. The hills are bigger, rougher and more rocky than in Mae Hong Son. More erosion as well. While I fall asleep for a moment Külli eats my banana. Then she rushes to toilet past me although she just recently demanded a special toilet stop and run to the bus and got stuck in a chicken basket. Bus stops often and incomprehensible fuss goes on around it. For example the driver gathers his things and leaves the bus. From the bush comes a new driver who keeps talking on his phone. The phone plays the Nokia tune. Nobody throws up.
Sun is already low once we reach Nan. Nan is not particularly popular among the locals either. It is said that there was an independent kingdom around it once upon a time. The taxi driver has never heard of our guesthouse and perhaps cannot read. Luckily there are literate and English-speaking women in Nan who locate the guesthouse on Google map and tell the driver where to go. One of them gives us her number is case we should run into more trouble.
In the guesthouse the English-speaking person is on the other side of the phone and arrives soon. Seems that three generations run the place: grandmother, mother and daughter. They take us to the night market gate. We buy this and that. Get our stomachs full and don't have to give out much money for it.

and white

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