Rushchyna pasture-Bystrytsia

There’s the strange mist again and I manage to start earlier than before, quarter past seven.
It hasn’t rained for two days so rain today is very likely. This was the main drive for an early start. Today’s trail should go along Tavpishyrka ridge but in order to get there I have to climb up and down and up. These are steep and slow climbs on loose rocks. There are some cows on the trail and a herd of horses.
There’s a pine thicket on both sides on the ridge and the promised views mostly hidden. This also makes observing the clouds more difficult.
The way down to Bystrytsia village goes through an arboretum. Signs with tree names in Ukrainian and Latin line the road. The trail turns muddy and is covered in cow prints.
More down I pass through the village. People are making hay and it smells good. Many types of flowers along the road.
I enter the main street right next to a shabby store. Get an ice-cream and a tomato. Inspect a blue shiny church and think long next to a building named “hotel”. The weather looks nice, it’s still early on the day. I just don’t know exactly where to camp, hoping to find a place following the river to the outskirts of the village. So no real reason to stay in a hotel.
A bigger shop is in the center of the village, as are a bus stop, another accommodation and some kind of eatery. I dispose of the garbage, mine and foreign, mostly cigarette stubs collected from the trail.
It takes a long time to exit the village. The houses go on and on, the road is dusty and hot. Finally I find a nice spot where the red marked trail crosses the river. Go check on the other side as well but don’t find a place as good there. Now it will certainly start to rain and maybe tomorrow I cannot cross the river. But maybe I don’t have to. It depends on which trail I’ll take, there are a few options.
A man with a child walks past and I ask them if it is okay to camp here. Mainly to practise the phrase I’ve learned for occasions like this. It is okay. The tent is weak, comments the man, rain will blow it away.
It thunders. I manage a quick wash in the river and then it starts to rain. The tent stays put.
  An elderly lady arrives and inquires about my doings, gives me salo. That is an Ukrainian delicassy, a kind of fat. After a while she’s back to bring me bread and onion. You cannot eat salo without bread. Well, she probably needs the food more than I do. Asks to see what I usually eat and looks interestedly at a dry food package. A curios and kind person. I make the onion into a salad with the tomato and eat it with some of the bread but I’m not sure about the fat. It looks very raw and uninviting, not like the one I ate on Nimetska pasture with the four guys. And I don’t know how long the lady has kept it in her pocket with this heat.
Later it rains more and the river starts to steam.
Distance walked: 27,9 km.
from Borevka pass to Rushchyna pasture
Bystrytsia-Zubrynka river

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