from Käsmu to Toolse

Thick cloud outside in the morning. Water has been splashing somewhere near all night as if I slept in a bathtube.
Camp gets packed rather fast. Sun tries to glow but not very successfully. Fir-pine-rock forest until Käsmu is as nice as yesterday. Nothing much has changed in Käsmu either except for a cycling and waving old man. Sea is white.
A pleasant small road until Võsu. From other sportsmen I spot one nordic walker, one dog walker and two French cyclists. In Võsu the small road turns into beach promenade which directs me past Võsu’s no doubt lively shopping area where I had planned to buy mineral water or some sportsdrink. Also here have people managed to flatten frogs.
Through Lahe and Lobi villages goes a gravel road to Lobi cape. There are ruins of a small building and a white revolving boat with a man. A suitable place for picnic. Seven swans fly by.
I don’t turn to Pedassaare because I don’t remember what was there. Later I look it up and it was a kilometer long stretch of rock. Next time. Ditches next to the road contain duck couples.
In Vergi I find out that the harbour café will be open on 17th of May. See you soon. Toilet is open right away.
Altja pub also looks deserted and a hole is been digged next to it. There has to be a forest road towards Mustoja. The beginning is as promised but then asphalt suddenly turns up. Goes until Mustoja, makes a circle and disappears. Gravel road continues until luxorious campsite by the river. Some weird noise. Perhaps I should inquire if a war has started.
The road continues to Vainupea. In parts it is so sandy that I have to push the bike. In two places is a narrow alternate trail next to it. Forest is cool, lot of moss and tree trunks. I would like to stay and gobble it up with my eyes. Silence.
Lahemaa National Park ends. Clear cut areas are back.
In Vainupea are angry dog, chapel and fishermen’s parking space. Sun comes out but air is still icy. It seems that I continue to ride away from the sun.
In Eisma I don’t spot the road to the harbor and so miss the oportunity to look at the wooden fence there. Next to the village ten year old storm has created a record big clear cut area.
From Rutja I call Merike and threaten her with my arrival. The yellow house with red roof is easy to find although at first I try to enter from the back door. There’s a new dog in the household, Sally. Chews. I get to shower right away. Then follow other services: food, chatting, sightseeing and more food. All food that I don’t eat here I have to take with me. We visit ruins of Toolse castle and Karepa beach. Old boat sheds see little activity these days because some fishermen are dead and some too old. Sea is full of swans and later there’s sunset on the left.
A short riding day, 60 km.
from Juminda to Käsmu
from Toolse to Aa

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