from Juminda to Käsmu

It was a bit cold in the night and it takes a while to get going. In order to warm up I go and stand on the beach in the sun but the sun is not warm enough yet.
Still I start 15 minutes earlier than yesterday, already 10:12.
My bum is somewhat sore but it is gone quickly. Funny thing is that my legs don’t hurt because yesterday after lunch thigh muscles tried to cramp. I did’t have any time for training.
First stop is very soon at Naskali bay view where it is nice and warm. The bench will probably be taken down to the water with erosion by my next visit. When I was first here it was a couple of meters between it and the drop down. Some birds make noise on the bay.
I’ll go to check if the forest road to Tapurla is working. Except for a few mud holes it’s fine. No tree has lied down over it. Still, balancing heavy bicycle on muddy trail is a challenge.
Tapurla harbor is empty of people. Driving in requires owner’s permission. No owner in sight. A guy called Meelis is selling a cool small house in Tapurla.
I react to strange noise from my luggage and let National Geographic be delivered to my sister’s. Woman on the other end of the line is surprised how it’s possible to live nowhere.
After I’ve left hot seaside and ruins of Soviet military buildings behind am I at Purekkari cape, the norternmost tip of mainland Estonia. North it is for the sun is hidden deep in cloud and wind blows through all clothes. I take the picture and head back to the bicycle. Sun comes out.
My hopes for coffee in Viinistu are killed by a sign that says that coffee offer ended 15 minutes ago.
Martin has asked me to let him know when I’m in Kasispea but he has went to town. He knows where local lynx and all other animals are. The forest is full of surveillance cameras. Check it out at
Towards Käsmu. I exit Harju county and let myself be lured by a nice-looking forest road. Ahead of me is long straight asphalt stretch. Forest is muddy, a tree lies across the trail. When mud is cleared, are cones hurled around. I find Käsmu lake where it is possible to take yelloish liquid although I’ve just ordered two litres of tap water. So the liquid stays in the lake. The lake looks like a nice place for swimming.
The trail still takes me to Käsmu, old captains’ village containing lot of beautifully renovated houses.
A sign points to bicycle trail that promises to take me to Palganeem (salary cape). For a freshly unemployed person like me this sounds appetizing. Road is a bit harder so it’s easier to ride. Too late came the idea to camp by the lake and visit the cape with unloaded bicycle. It would be warmer inside the forest. Most of the forest around here is bumpy and thrown full of erratic boulders. We call them travelling rocks because they came with ice. There’s some level ground on the cape so I put up my tent although one is not supposed to do it here. Someone has made a fire a while ago which is also forbidden. Don’t do what I do. I wait for water. It arrives during sunset and I go to meet it half-way. Behind me are purple and pink ribbons over the sky which are meant for letting people hurrying to get water to land flat on their noses. I meet Martin who has moved from Tallinn to Kasispea and does all kinds of interesting things there. Like goes to talk to birds. He has three litres of tap water and a beer in his backpack. Amazing. Somewhere a bear is posing for a camera. I hurry back along the dark edge of forest and sea to cook dinner and tea, lit by the remains of sunset.
70 km today.
from Jõelähtme to Juminda
from Käsmu to Toolse

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