from Suuremõisa to Külaküla

Kalle leaves early for the ferry, I still have another idyllic morning on the terrace.
Since I’m not going to make it for the half past one Hiiumaa ferry without rushing I have a lot of time. Next ferry goes at eight. I read how my friends Pärle and Jan are doing with mud in Colombia (they are travelling around the world on motorbikes) and check how Veiga is doing on her kayaking around Iceland. She was stuck in Reykjavik due to strong wind while I could not get out of Kuressaare. Each has their own scale and a nature force to negotiate.
Quiet small roads until Linnuse village. I have to meet Urmas on the dam going to Saaremaa. It takes him time to finish swimming with his dog. No other entertainment being on offer on the dam I eat all ripe wild strawberries from next to the parking lot. First ripe wild strawberries I see this year.
First circle is complete, circle around Muhu island.
Strong wind on the dam so we drive to chat and eat ice-cream in front of Orissaare shop. I spend some more time in Orissaare getting stuck in harbor restaurant. There are some other cyclists as well. I witness the waitress politely trying to persuade a customer to take water from the jug instead buying it in a plastic bottle. The customer is from the age group that sill has a lot of power to make decisions but regrettably few have understood the need to change their habits of consumption.
Try to contact Piret for letting her know that I’ll cycle past Maasi in a short while but find out that I don’t have her number in this phone. Disappointing. But she would be at work in Tallinn probably anyway.
Go to have a look at Maasi castle ruins. In the parking lot Mahe approaches me and tells me about the history of the place. Just like that. Or well, of course she’s alsp trying to get the tourist to buy souvenirs. The caztle is cool, especially the vaulted rooms underground.
Take a picture of Pulli cliff and make a defour through Hindu and Paaste villages. I don’t know what is it with Hindus on the islands. There are many places with this name on Hiiumaa and Saaremaa.
In Triigi the circle around Saaremaa is complete. The café is deserted and the toilet doesn’t work. One can sit inside the harbor building where there is a working institution and electricity. The man inside the building does not get it why someone has to go through the torture of such cycling. And takes a bicycle and is off.
No wind on Hiiumaa. Without looking at the map I make an unnecessary detour through Hindu village and get back on the correct road going through Reheselja village where there are nice red houses.
Sun faces me from yellow haze onthe edge of otherwise dark purple sky. This yellow predicts rain for tomorrow as does the Norwegian forecast. Air smells of greenery. There is unripe corn, cut grass, retreatind heat and wait for rain in it but also cockoos, nightingales and warblers. Sun draws a giant rainbow behind me. When I stop then I realize that mosquitos have come out as well to enjoy the quiet and beautiful summer evening. More disturbing than the mosquitos is the forest that has holes in it like Swiss cheese.
With the help of instructions that arrived yesterday I find Anne’s summer house and get in there. I don’t know how tall people normally come here but it takes me a few moments to find the ladder. Go and check out the beach. It is indeed beautiful and the sunset is with special effects.
Cycling distance 72 km. The total reached 2000 kilometers a few days ago.
resting day on Muhu island
from Külaküla to Kalurikoja forest cabin

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