arrival in Kulusuk

When clouds part a lone giant three-peaked ice block is visible on an endless blue field of water. Later on more of those come into view, all of them on their way to look for warm summer.

Going to Kulusuk is going back in time. The air plane lands 20 minutes before it takes off. Kulusuk is an island on the east coast of Greenland. On it is Kulusuk village and in there the Kulusuk hotel. 202 people live on the island, on the east coast about 3000. In the whole of Greenland 56 500. The day after tomorrow starts Icelandic sail boat Arktika from Kulusuk to a two week tour towards south. To prepare I've read Miss Smilla's snow feeling, waxed my trousers and bought a polarfilter for my camera (also known as polarization filter).
Teresa meets me at the airport and our meeting is a bit of surprise for her because she only got the first name and assumed that there must be more Annelis in the world. But there's not. I don't have to walk the three kilometres to the village but can balance on the back of an ATV. This is actually not allowed.
I live in a house on my own. Judging by the beds five more people fit inside. There's heating, a living room, toilet and some food in the kitchen. View on an iceberg. I waste Theresa's time for a tea and some snacks called lunch. She gives me tips for walking around the island and flares to scare polar bears. One is not supposed to wander away from the village alone and without a gun.
Finding my way back to my accommodation it seems that someone has stolen part of the windows and the whole water house. Since according to Teresa there's no crime on the island, it must be the wrong path. I've left my camera at Theresa's. Going to get it I find a phone on the road. A group of beer drinking men is left to solve the mystery of the lost owner. A dead seal lies next to the road.
I meet my camera again and climb a hill. There are view, a stone with a cross on it, dandelions, bluebells, catchflies and dwarf fireweed or river beauty, the national flower of Greenland. Sun shines, no wind. First an air plane and then a helicopter make noise above my head. Dogs start to howl in the village. On the other side of the hill is a lake. I circle the lake, climb another hill and find the bridge that was supposed to be in the beginning of the trail. Well then. I don't find the church, instead I find the garbage dump and puppies. Garbage is dumped between the rocks behind the village where wind blows it all over the place. I decide to take my rubbish back to Iceland.
Time to take washing equipment and go to Teresa for shower and dinner. She lives in the only house on the island with running water. Food is good and talking takes time. Teresa has decided to stay living in Kulusuk for some time.
Only Aurora anchored, Arktika has gone somewhere.

stopover in Reykjavik
a day in Kulusuk

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