Germans wake me up at two o'clock in the night in order to ask if I want to eat breakfast.
Loonies. The food I take of course, doesn't matter how they call it.
In airport café in Munich it's possible to observe how client painstakingly orders coffee and sandwich in German and the waitress answers dully in English. Everywhere the same.
In airplane to Tallinn is Estonian daily (comics!) and Helen who says hello to everyone who knows her. Clouds in Estonia are very high up and there are very few of them. It's 22,5 degrees.

I have a feeling as if I had been away for many months.
Iceland is a country that has to be earned. It does not give herself easily. Someone who has seen pretty picture postcards might be disappointed landing in Keflavík on a rainy day and looking at the grey flat landscape from flybus window. Surprisingly not each place is stunning and stunning places are not always stunning. Of course you can drive through the highlights which are highlights for a reason. Walk decently on garden paths and wait for the group of Chinese to move away from your frame. But there’s also another Iceland that is accessible away from paved roads, walking through rivers, climbing on rocks, making your clothes wet and sleeping on the ground. Amazing views emerge and just when you think you've seen it all a totally new landscape unfolds, leaving you numb by the evening.
Looking back I see the untamed waters and multitude of flowers in Hornstrandir, picturesque puzzle of the Westfjords, secretive Tröllaskagi, mountains full of colors in Kerlongarfjöll, and people reluctant to speak Icelandic.
And it's a country that eats cameras. I managed to watch out in March but now the humidity got it. Might as well throw it away.
Next trips will take me to Hornbjarg and to a hike from Hornvík to the hot tube in Reykjarfjörður, to Tröllaskagi, Melrakkaslétta and the East.

Jan Mayen was a fully separate adventure, a world on its own. Tiny dot on the map, long way to walk on the Norwegian road, long climb to the top of Beerenberg. Stones and moss, ups and downs. With a lovely small ad hoc community of campers and walkers.
towards home

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