paths of Folegandros

The village is quiet and empty in the morning, only sun is high up.

There's still omelette and coffee at Nikolaus, a small shop for buying an apple and a bakery around the corner. The expedition may begin.
It begins at the bus stop. Already yesterday I found out that the first bus to Ano Meria goes at 9:45 which is unreasonably late, of course. Greek system. A little before ten I look at the map to find that 5-6 km of glaring sun and paved road waits ahead and jump down from the wall. And then a small green bus approaches round the corner.
I manage in Greek with the driver, without thinking much about it. So the language is still there somewhere.
Almost everybody go to the last stop and two elderly couples and a lone man with a ladybag start towards the beginning of the trail with me. When the monopati forks towards the sea then everybody else continue along the road, leaving the trail for me. I like it.
Small detour to a chapel up a hill with a view to Polyaigos and Kimolos islands. It seems that one of the couples has changed their minds and follows me on the trail.
It doesn't take long until Livadaki beach comes into view. Someone has built towers from stones, a naked man sunbathes under a tree and the hiking couple swims near the rocks. Luckily there are trees. I conquer one shady place and go for a swim. A boat comes and brings more people. Here are not many too tourists but enough to make it worthwhile to come in November. The water is salty and transparent.
I finish the chapter. Wind starts to blow and this will take me up the hill. Then it's hot. Rocky paths up and down, stone walls, terraces, ruins of donkey stables. Views on shimmering sea. People are on the beaches so there are none on the trail. Not much shade. Again. I think of the pictures of Greenland I watched last night. Some time ago it seemed weird to pack without taking passport copies, now it doesn't feel like a real trip when I don't have to take warm hat and gloves. I wonder if Captain Siggi would tolerate me twice within one year.
Around four I'm back in Chora. In the café an elderly couple tries to figure out some toys, in another table people play chess. Such a cool café.
I take some grapes and go rinse off the salt. First sunny village, then village in sunsetcolors, then village lights are a backdrop for reading. Can't motivate myself to go for dinner, some stuff is still left from the bakery.

getting used to vacation on Folegandros
beaches of Folegandros

Add a comment

Email again: