to the hollow islands

Traditional breakfast by Nikolas who shakes my hand solemnly after hearing that I'm leaving.

Irena takes me to the port before eleven. She tells me that the season is about to end but she stays on the island also in the winter and rests. It is a bit boring though. She has two little daughters who take part of her time. There's a secondary school on the island so the children can stay here until they're 18.
In the port there's delay. The ferry is more than an hour late and then bounces off on the waves towards Ios and Santorini. Next stop is Amorgos and I wonder for a while why I prepared my itinerary so that Amorgos is the next island to visit. Probably it would not be possible to get to Astypalea from Koufonisia, both of these places are not very tightly connected to the outside world.
With all this transportation I've read almost half of the book. People are mostly starving in the book and throwing up next to me so after some time I'm not sure anymore if I'm hungry or not. The ferry makes strange movements indeed and the captain doesn't seem to do anything to spare the passengers.
Koufonisia is actually a group of islands and one of them, Pano Koufonisi is inhabited. The name means hollow islands. I'll check out the hollows tomorrow.
Lot of fuss in the port although only a few people come out of the ferry. There's a minivan to take me to the accommodation which is 200 meters away. Difficult to understand if the driver speaks English or Greek. In the accommodation is again nice room and a pillow on the balcony to chill out.
It is a weird time between lunch and dinner but everybody from the ferry have gone to claim food. Food together with beer and cats costs five euros. I like this place.
The village is more pastoral than Chora on Folegandros. Big gardens with trees and flowers by the houses. Wandering around I hear a song from a church and sneak in. A priest is singing and three women read or sing taking turns. An older woman tells the two middle-aged ones what to do. The church is small, colorful and smells of incense.
Noise of crickets outside later in the night.

the other end of the island
circle around the island

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