Sky is light blue and pink in the morning. By the time I get down to the village center a lilac-yellow cloud has been stuck to the mountain top.
Following the smell I find the bakery and take some pies with me. One is used for instant breakfast, the rest are for picnic later.
First Iain and Lyn arrive, then Anna and Akseli. Carol and Denis are chased out of their house too. They have lived on Tilos for 7 years but have not walked the trail where we are going to. Andreas takes us with his minibus to Agios Panteleimon monastery. There are no monks there anymore, only one holy father looking after the place.
The trail circles around the monastery and then starts winding up the mountain. Mountain is covered with thorny bushes, smell of herbs and goat dung. Trail is not so dangerous and difficult as originally advertised, consisting mostly of small loose stones. Some Germans have even been up here and painted red dots on rocks. Sun is on the other side of the island at first. When we reach the sunny side, it gets hot but the wind is rather chilly at the same time. Sea is dark blue and sky is clear. Here and there are remnants of walls. The whole island has one time or another been managed by people, terraced and grain and other stuff cultivated. Tilos was called 'breadbasket of Dodecanese’ because of this and the islanders didn’t have to venture out for dangerous fishing expeditions and the like.
Nisyros’ silhouette of the volcano, Kos, Chalki, Rhodos and other islands are visible with various success. We try to define all birds we spot. Akseli carries a tripod with a telescope for that purpose and Anna a Finnish birdbook.
Some time after 2 o’clock we reach Eristos beach, break into an already closed hotel, drink up all the owners’ beer and catch the bus to Livadia. Back to Livadia, we land in Omonia, discuss most of the world’s business, settle the bill, make plans for tomorrow and inquire about buses. Then I get all essential things for life from a small shop: nescafe, chocolate and a map of Tilos.
The best time around here should be November. No wind, no heat, only sun.
During diner the wind tries to blow away the roof of the restaurant and a big yellow cat to push over my chair. Neither of them is successful. Moon shines and so torch batteries can be saved.

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