Wake up at 4:50 to reach the 5:30 ferry. Kurt also gets up and brings me a glass of juice. I don't succeed in paying for anything of course.
It turns out that it would be nice to get to the harbor at least 15 minutes before departure time. I race off. Weather is foggy but it does not rain anymore. During the night it rained a lot. The plastic bag that I had installed on saddle has flown away and saddle is wet. Low dark gray clouds are what is left in the sky from the rain, with a dramatic yellow edge marking sunrise.
It's 5 km to the harbor. Some cars are already there and soon everybody is let on board. I put my bike in a place shown with a careless hand wave, supposedly the ferry-boy will do something with it. Although there were no dangers on my way up to the lounge, I've managed to kick my knee against something. A man sleeps on a bench in sleeping bag. Also a possibility.
I check information about destination. Kumlinge consists of three bigger islands (and a bunch of smaller islands, as always), there are 370 people and a church from the 14th century. 11 km and half an hour to the other harbor on the other end of the island, where my next ferry goes, as I find out.
Once on the land, race with time begins. I speed through Kumlinge. Strong headwind remains the only sight. The knee has nothing to say, it has time to hurt later. I'm there 9 minutes before departure time. Hot and content with myself. I go to Långnäsi (it sounds like 'long nose' to me), to continue from there after some time with another ferry. Theoretically it would be possible to exchange ferries in Överö but it seems that it might not be easy to stop a ferry there. Since the weather is not very nice, I rather sit inside somewhere, like on a ferry. No need to buy a ticket anyway.
Passengers with cars prefer to sit in the car so I get a first row seat. A blinding spot of sunlight appears on the sea. White tatters hang from dark blue clouds. Specs of blue sky here and there. White foam on waves. Sun shines randomly on some small islets covered in solitary trees. By the time we get to Långnäs low greyish blue layer evenly covers the sky. Blond ferry-boy waves to everyone personally.
A sign shows to a café. It's open from 12 until 20. Nice, it's 9 o'clock, next ferry goes at 12. I put on rainproof clothes and conquer a picnic table in the harbor. Since there's nothing better to do, I make myself some coffee. A book keeps me company, luckily it's not cold and it does not start to rain. A whistling girl with two big bags arrives.
The ferry is there half an hour before departure time. Destination is Kökar. The southernmost municipality of Åland, 260 inhabitants. There are a dwelling site from bronze time, a church from 1784 and a Franciscan monastery. Arguably the best place for paddling.
Soon hopeful noises start to come from the direction of the counter. In the morning we tried to guess with Kurt, whether I can get something to eat on the first ferry and we both thought that of course something is sold there, what else do people do on a ferry anyway. On the first ferry-ride I didn't get to consume anything, on the second ferry was a coffee vending machine and on the third try I finally get to eat. Have been awake for 7,5 hours already, about time to have breakfast.
I finish the book.
Some sun shines on Kökar. Maybe that is why the island seems nice right away. It has the best weather of all the places visited today for sure. After some cycling I notice the sign for Sandvik camping where a cabin should wait for me. When I get there it looks like a good place for camping also. The camping ground is divided into secluded spots with trees and bushes and is not a bare area like in Degersand.
By reception are two sulky Finns who announce already from far away that the door is closed and will be opened only at 3. Seven minutes to go. Food is served from 14 until 20. No breakfast. 'Good' news. I get the key. Other cabins look more beautiful. I try not to be bothered by that. Living in a cabin does not mean personal toilet and shower but these are still common. This is a small disappointment. But certainly more space than in a tent and unlimited amount of electricity. There's WiFi but it's very weak.
First I go to have lunch. Just in case. Who knows when there will be next possibility to eat. Hamburger and some pie with salad on menu. Fasting camp of some kind? The pie is good but small. Why it is not customary to ask for second plate in a restaurant? I know that they have more of it in the kitchen.
I go to check out the island. Really fun to cycle without the bags. A sign next to the road points to the most famous Scandinavian remains of early human habitation. Totally unfamiliar name to me. Path goes between bushes, I don't notice the remains. But there starts the so-called kalen hiking path. It's a huge rock with patches of ling, juniper, fern, various moss and forest. Peculiar. Sun comes out and for some time there's clear sky. I try to eat all of the raspberries, blueberries and gooseberries but despite my efforts a lot of them remain.
Path goes to the sea. Waves roar and splash. A couple of deserted-looking cabins are between the rocks. Two tourists arrive and ask if it takes long to reach the stone labyrinth. I have to admit that I have no idea because I didn't notice the passing of time while eating berries. Besides, what does it mean anyway? A 15-minutes walk was a long way for David.
Walking further I discover after some time that I've lost my hat. Running back I find it between two stones by the sea. Must of fallen off while taking pictures of waves. Damn sporting day, like a compensation for the leisure at the beginning.
The time is again such that I can get dinner only if I rush. The permanent clock-watching is a nuisance. A goat stands on a meadow. Lucky for him, he stands in food up to his belly.
There was a kiosk by the road before. It is open until 9 and serves hamburger. I must make a silly impression because first my phone rings and then my brain stops and there's an urge to turn around as usual when seeing hamburger on the menu. I still take the meat sandwich for dinner and another for breakfast. Two people come who were also on the ferry. They obviously have also tried all the closed cafés and restaurants already. It starts to rain on my hamburger, although the sun is shining. No rainbow, it is probably not included in the price.
Sun creates a lovely light so I go to take a look at the church. It's red, with a separate tower. The sun sets in orange and purple colors, yellow halo on one side, purple clouds on top each other on the horizon on the other side.
37,4 km cycling today.
from Godby to Hummelvik

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