For breakfast we order 'tutti' - the whole menu.
Then we have to reach Fieri, close to this city lie the ruins of Apollonia, from 6th century BC. Some road signs have to be read from the rear mirror. That needs a bit of practice.
Once in Apollonia, no-one wants any money from us, although we try to hassle a man who turns out to be the guide of a bunch of schoolchildren. There's a monastery from 16th century, a church where I can put a candle and columns in the style of Tartu University in the middle of a plateau. Plus magnificent pastoral view. For the schoolkids we represent a kind of tourist attraction. They also consider Tbilisi to be the capital of Estonia. So we've made some progress towards southeast.
Fieri is a lot shorter on the way back.
Next challenge is to find the road to Zvernec in Vlore. When we finally manage to do that then the road starts with huge potholes (these are not on the map), goes through a rubbished forest and ends by a long wooden bridge. On the other side of the bridge on the island there's a monastery. Deserted, with some lone candles and icons. On the other side of the island is a forlorn-looking small chapel with some icons and song books. No-one there either. Although the garbage says that locals have been here.
Back in Vlore, we find a hotel where bedsheets are folded into butterflies. Vlore was the city where Albanian independence was proclaimed in 1912. There's a nice view during sunset from the soldiers' cemetery on the hill.
away from the coast
Aquarium and Butrint

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