from Matsi to Salevere

Rear tyre is soft in the morning.
Decide to change it to avoid changing it later in the rain somewhere in the side of the road. No visible damage, weird. No I don’t have any spares left. Equipment team starts proceeding the matter.
Rain was in the forecast but instead sun comes out. Then again, a lot of dark blue is getting ready. I put rain clothes on just in case.
This coastal hiking trail seems to be in use. A cyclist with luggage waves from far and says „guten Tag“. The French are spotted. When I’m looking at a sign an elderly couple appears from opposite direction and the man gesticulates towards the trail. This type of man who gives advice without asking if there ever was a problem. Often there was not. I’m not even on that trail.
In Varbla first windmills come into sight.
Illuste manor has unusual style. The sign says that it was used only as a living house, all production happened in Paatsalu manor.
Starting from Pivarootsi wind blows from back and road is smooth. Wooded meadows begin. Especially Laelatu wooded meadow that for me has a certain aura something like a holy place. It’s one of the most biologically diverse places in Europe. Don’t step on the actual meadow out of fear to crash something but just look from the old railway dam. The dam continues until Virtsu. This is a very nice road.
Home-made cutlets in Virtsu harbor. The waitress asks if I want small or big portion. How can someone looking at me assume that a small portion could be enough?
Past Virtsu a gravel road goes from between windmills to Salevere. There Kairi has an accommodation called Kodade. I have time to use the toilet and peek in from the windows before the hosts arrive. The most beautiful camping houses in Estonia.
We make plans. I get a pile of books about birds to settle in. This is Matsalu national park, the bird watching place. It would also be Lääne county if it wasn’t for the administrative reform. After soup and pasta we drive down the hill where Kairi actually lives and the we are off to a tour. We find seven blooming garden orchids in Laelatu. A wild garlic forest with moss covered trees and giant land slugs in Puhtu. At Rooglaiu cape fishermen have burnt down their hut and the remains of it serve as basis for the coming midsummer bonfire. We drive through all the roads I haven’t been driving yet. Tomorrow I’ll start learning the language of birds.
Cycling today 69 km.
from Pärnu to Matsi
resting day in Matsalu

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