from Pärnu to Matsi

Salad and pancakes for breakfast and then saying goodbye.
It does not rain yet but soon it begins. I meet two French cyclists and we praise the weather.
Somehow I remember that it was not necessary to go to Valgeranna but once in Audru it also feels wrong. Looking at the map I discover that from Valgeranna it was possible to access a small road by the sea. Well, now I’m in Audru and it does not rain here although the place is full of people wrapped in raingear and carrying some signs. One angrily asks me where is the stage here. No idea, I shouldn’t even be here.
The small road can also be accessed from here so I continue, cows making noise in the east and Baltic sea foaming in the west. Herons fly up from the ditch. Where gravel ends start villages with mowed lawn, flowerbeds and silent dogs. First a mouse and then a fox cross the road.
In Lindi a sign points to Captain’s summer café that opens at 12. It is exactly 12 o’clock so I go in. Behind the house is a man building the terrace. He brings me coffee, fish sandwich and rhubarb pie. All the fun costs 4 euros, view over Pärnu bay is for free. Local enterpreneurs have united here and formed ’romantic coastline’ route where sights and food is offered.
During the day rain is turned on and off at irregular intervalls. Usually it is turned on when my rain clothes are almost dry. Wind blows from the side. So I skip Munalaiu cape and am less keen about gravel roads. Feels like an effort to keep going. The hood restricts the view and I’m more in my own thoughts than looking around. Part of the time I now use the European costal hiking trail that I walked in Portugal and that ends or begins in Narva-Jõesuu.
Food and drink are advertised in Pootsi. The girl behind the counter asks where I’m going and is not shocked by the idea of camping. All kinds of farm-produced things on sale. I eat a whole pizza, drink juice and coffee and read waiting for the rain to diminish. It doesn’t.
In Matsi there are many picnic tables under the pines by the sea but the wind is strong enough to carry me off together with my bike. Dark grey clouds approaching above the sea do not make camping feel like something I’d like to do now. So I let myself be lured by a sign pointing to Varemurru resthouse. The gate is closed and when I call the number next to it an energetic male voice answers that of course it is possible to stay for the night and a person comes right away. A person comes and I get to use a whole house meant for a lot of people. The furnishings are from the 90ties but the wind cannot get me here. During the evening sky brightens up and I keep eyeing it from my window feeling sorry that I’m not outside. Then again, the wind is still wild and who knows for what all this is good for.
Today 79 km.
from Lemme to Pärnu
from Matsi to Salevere

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