from Säärenina to Rumpo

Finally the rain arrives that I’ve been promised many days.
Whole night it thunders and flashes. Small junipers protect me nicely from wind.
In the morning it doesn’t rain until I think that I can wrap up the tent almost dry. From this thought it rains until Kuri (evil in Estonian).
I navigate on small roads to Heltermaa harbor with a beak at Kallaste cliff. There are layers of stone above mossy tree stumps. This is now another place, not the Kallaste sand stone cliff that was at lake Peipsi.
Last three kilometers before Heltermaa the road turns into a series of ponds. Clouds rise higher and shine through the edges but from behind me thundering noise already approaches.
Sun shines in Rohuküla. I settle in harbor café again. Don’t want to buy coffee on the ferry because they use plastic dishes there. It’s the most common litter on the roadsides.
Front light fasting is broken and supply team gets a picture of the situation. The bag fastening was replaced on Muhu so fast that I didn’t even notice.
Because I’ve been going faster than planned I now have gathered five extra days. This adds another island to my itinerary, Vormsi. The ferry goes from Rohuküla four times every day and I’ve only kayaked to the island once for picnic.
Hot weather on Vormsi. I like the place immediately although here horseflies are as big as seagulls. How could I not like a place where there are piles of books in the bus stop and shop vestibule. Notice board says that Martin, Jürgen and Jaagup graduated from elementary school this year. A job is on offer on the ferry café. One has to know Estonian and English, working time is 15 days a month. Not bad.
The hostel where I was planning to camp has a big group coming and does not take anyone else today. But the guy says that camping is okay everywhere as long as I’m not in somebody’s yard and don’t make any campfire. I had planned to go to Rumpo peninsula in the evening and remember some accommodation there so this is where I’m heading. The first place has decided to take only groups this year, the second one does not accept any visitors today and tomorrow. Thunder cloud is swiftly approaching. Well, I wanted to bring some money to local entrepreneurs but seems it’s not necessary. And people should then not be surprised when tourists camp in undesignated areas.
An RMK hiking trail goes to the tip of the peninsula. This makes it likely that it’s not private land. I put my tent up on the first grassy patch between junipers and throw everything inside a moment before it starts pouring with rain. I read until the noise and rain outside stops.
Finally I hear only faint drops against the tent, open the door and see surprised cattle looking at me.
I don’t have any water. Go back to the last accommodation. Water is available.
Take a walk to the end of the peninsula. Low sun colors sky dark purple and bonsai-junipers bright green. Air is fresh after rain but it’s still warm. After sunset clouds take on all colors they know.
Distance 33 km.
from Kalurikoja forest cabin to Säärenina
from Rumpo to Paralepa

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