from Tuhkana to Harilaid

Wait for the tent to dry but it doesn’t. Lot of dew in the morning.
Somewhere close yell common cranes.
It is 28th day of the hike and this is now my longest hike. Walking from Peraküla to Ähijärve took 27 days.
First I drive to Panga cliff. It can be observed from above and from below. Trail on both sides, no signs. The cliff is impressing. Would like to come back for longer time. Seems like I have underestimated some things on Saaremaa.
The souvenir shop sells coffee and when I ask about food then also smoked fish. I know how to eat it from Matsalu experience.
Then to Võhma and towards Mustjala. It’s possible to make a shortcut on, wow, cobblestone road. Luckily they haven’t had many cobblestones. Cool forest on both sides, already being devoured by woodcutters. Nice tailwind after that.
In Saaremaa harbor nothing is going on. It was a mega-project when it was built in 2005. Tagaranna village is quiet as well. A trail strewn with garbage in the beginning leads to Estonia memorial. It was a ship that sank on 28 Sept 1994, more than 800 people drowned, many of them from Saaremaa.
From there I cycle on the cliff and in the forest. One short piece of trail is missing on the map. Someone has been here with a bicycle recently. Probably also didn’t believe that the trail is not here for some time. There’s a big pond. Otherwise interesting landscapes and many campsites. This too looks like a place to come back to.
Autumn arrives and I put on a jacket. Then sun comes out and I have to change the jacket again for sunglasses.
There are many cliffs after Veeremäe but since dark blue clouds come closer and closer I just choose one, Undva. Not very impressing, dramatic sky gets more attention. It starts to rain. Wind tries to either blow me back or on the side.
I need to find a trail to Harilaid. There’s the trail, with a sign „Harilaid“ crossed eith red and „impenetrable road“ written under it. But it’s penetrable enough although it starts with some mud pools. I hesitate at one and have to step ankle-deep in mud in order to avoid laying down in it. Yak. Rain stops, the bike is very muddy. Somehow I had imagined that on the islands I mostly cycle on paved roads. Don’t know where this weird idea came from.
Harilaiu campsite is occupied by young fishermen. And the soil is again especially thin. I move the tent right away.
Distance today 99 km.
from Sääretirp to Tuhkana
from Harilaid to Järve

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