from Lehtma to Kapasto

The trail zigzags in the forest near the beach which must be nice in the summer. An unbelievable amount of small hills. Most people think that Hiiumaa is completely flat, how wrong they are. Every now and then we pass by some military ruins, here used to be Soviet defense positions and German ones before that.

A small snack at Tahkuna lighthouse. The lighthouse is closed of course, opens in May. The trail continues near the beach. Forest hides solitary old trees that look like modern sculptures. They had the chance to grow in the open, first inhabitants of the sand dunes.

Next stop at Ränkaja camp site. A new and nice quiet place in the middle of the forest. With a pond that might be drinkable if there’s an emergency. It’s already five o’clock and we still have 19 km to go. We have the ambition to reach the Kapasto forest hut.

The forest is now shriveled, with slender trees. We approach swamp area. Behind us the sun is setting painting everything purple and orange but one should watch ahead to avoid stepping in water. It gets more difficult to tell water and turf apart in the growing dimness. Just before it gets totally dark we get a glimpse of Kaibaldi sands. It is a huge sandy area within the forest, a very unique sight for Estonia. This place is actually enough a reason to break this day in two and enjoy the scenery. Sandy forest roads are soft because of motorcycle enthusiasts and this makes walking slow and uncomfortable.

Seven more kilometers to go. Soles hurt. We find Nuutri river in the dark and get some water just in case. The water quality in the well by the hut is said to be dubious. Hundreds of stars in the sky. A green sandpiper can be heard.

Finally at the cabin, we make fire in the fireplace and prepare dinner quickly.

It was about 40 km. Too much for enjoying it.