I hear some noise all night but cannot figure out who it is.
Not ducks, not crows, not frogs, not seagulls. Only later I realize that these were seals. A green sandpiper repeatedly flies past, I can recognize him. The moon shines into the tent. No wind. Closer to morning seagulls and finches start to sing. Someone arrives by car and sets a boat into water. It is not exactly cold but something happens all the time.
At eight the sea is smooth like glass. Swans reflect on the surface.
Going back to the trail we see no reason to continue on the highway but opt for the trail that I used three years ago coming by bicycle from the opposite direction. Some toiling in the bushes and then we find it. I try to get some pictures of Kukka march which is fed by ground water. We call it spring marsh whatever it should be in English. Kukka marsh is the biggest of its kind in Estonia. Well, it’s too wet. Meanwhile, Kalle has managed to get some bird shit on his backpack.
Next attraction is Helmersen boulder field. Some huge rocks strewn about in the forest. It used to be one giant rock ages ago. Gregor von Helmersen was a 19th century geologist who studied boulders among many other things.
Kärdla means shop, food and coffee. Out of season many places are closed but the Greek café Ambrosia is open. With a live Greek, a retired teacher from Pelion.
The Kärdla-Tõrvanina hiking trail sadly is not used anymore because of some private land. That means the trail has been diverted a bit and is not so scenic anymore. We cut out Tõrvanina to walk a bit more close to tomorrow’s destination. End up camping wild somewhere near Lehtma.
About 29 km today.