along the coast

Sun. A lot of sun. Waterdrops on the car have frozen into ice bumps.
First I go back to the same beach. The water is higher but it's calmer. Stones don't shine as much. From the car park goes a 6 km trail to Malarriff and from there about a kilometer to huge rocks. Lóngdrangar. Trolls. They can be seen from the road.
The trail goes along high coast where there are strange stacks and rocks, just like that. In one place water hits so strongly against the rocks that it feels like an earthquake. On the other side is Snæfell that wasn't there yesterday. All covered in snow. Trolls come slowly into view. I presume that there's a car park and a lot of tourists, some of whom are going to where my car is and I can get a lift. But the car park is quite a long strech further up and empty. The trolls are accessible only on foot. I rest on a stone, eat a muesli bar and drink water. I'm hungry.
The way back goes one hour faster because I've already photographed everything. The sun is also higher and there are less layers of light. Low tide. Water has left dark smooth ponds between the rocks.
Already from far I can see that the car park in the starting point is full of cars and people. So here they all are.
To Hellnar for soup. The whole staff remembers that I was there yesterday and read through half a book. Today's weather doesn't support sitting inside so I rush out pretty soon. There's another trail between Hellnar and Arnarstapi. Next to it is a cave that consists of thin layers of rolled stone. Amazing. The trail is not very amazing. Or it would have been better to start here. There's a troll in Arnarstapi. Bárður.
After having walked about 20 km in total I leave the rest of the fun for tomorrow. But there's still some light time left. At the end of the peninsula is Öndverðarnes lighthouse. Lighthouses are not much of architectural achievments here but there's hope to see sunset and how Snæfell slowly turns pink. For 10 km curvy gravel road the traffic is suprisingly heavy. In addition to the lighthouse there are some ruins and a well. One third of the the liquid inside should be beer. Impossible to tell from the taste.
On my way back I make a short stop in Skarðsvík where there's a sandy beach. This is a big deal.
I'm just ready with my pasta when 14 Chinese with trolleys arrive in the hostel. Kári asks them to feel like home. Maybe it's not the best idea. Different understanding of personal space is immidiately aparent. I escape to the living room with tea. Kári prepares next room for concert tomorrow.
Suddenly Chinese rush yelling out. I suspect aurora borealis but the moon just comes into view accompanied by a lightshow.

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