9th day, Kilpisjärvi-Gappohytta

It had slipped my attention that the kilometer count does not start from where I’m staying but 6.5 km away, at the other end of Kilpisjärvi. And that “there’s 13 km to Gappohytta from there” is not from Kouhkimajärvi but from Goldahytta which 3 km from Kouhkimajärvi. That way I get 9 surprise kilometers.

The first stretch I walk on the road to avoid dragging all the food for the next week up the mountain. The actual trail goes along the mountain side with no doubt nice views over the lake. Well, the lake with its reflections looks calm and fresh even from the road.

Quite many people until Treriksröset where the borders of three countries meet. People don’t exactly know what to do in such a place, me included. Some make pictures, some take water from Norway. A more important thing next to the uninspiring yellow structure is the memorial stone from the opening of Nordkalottleden. On Sept 2, 1993 the trail was opened here by the Finnish president Mauno Koivisto, Silvia Queen of Sweden, King Karl XVI Gustav and Sonja Haraldsen together with her husband Harald V, king of Norway. Such a high level hiking project.

Another attraction for the masses is Kitsiputos, a lovely waterfall on the Finnish side.

There’s a fence on the border between Finland and Norway so that Finnish and Norwegian reindeer don’t get mixed up.

From here it is possible to continue either to Pältsä in Sweden or to Gappo in Norway. I opt for Gappo, mostly because there’s a broken bridge between Gappo and Rosta but also because there’s less ascent going to Gappo and I’m carrying a maximum load of food.

Long flat plateau ahead where the wind can run without bumping into anything. Stern-looking Norwegian mountains ahead, Saana still visible behind me. The trail is again marked with stone cairns that often look like people or other animals. They have trolls and stuff here in Norway, you never know whom you’ll meet.

The first river crossing appears to be a canyon with a small stream at the bottom. I sit and eat some snacks, it’s nice and warm. A Norwegian hiker passes by and says that Gappohytta is full and that his name is Tor.

As I walk further, there are many ups and downs but not much flat ground next to flowing water. Just before the hut there’s another river, full of nature-made sculptures and pools. There I put up my tent and bathe together with the mosquitoes. Fog rises from the valley and swallows the sun.

33 km today.