In the morning I have a choice between a ferry at 6:30 or at 8:50. And two or six hours on Sottunga respectively.
I take the second option. It does not matter where to laze but it would be nice to sleep longer in the morning.
The ferry gets there with half an hour delay. Wind is chilly although sun is shining.
I look at the church. It's from 1728, dedicated to Maria Magdalen and is the smallest wooden church in Finland. Looks lovely. Sottunga is appropriately the smallest municipality in Finland. Area 342 km2, of this 27 km2 land, four inhabited islands and a bunch of small uninhabited ones. On 31th January 2012 there were 104 people. Everyone counts.
From the school a 3 km hiking trail should start. There's a sign but no trail. So I go left, past lone houses. A man walks on his field with a plough, from the open car door comes country music. A trail going into forest disappears soon but I eat all the raspberries.
On my way back I climb in the direction of a yellow arrow to a wind mill. Door is closed with a wooden stick, I peek inside. It's dark there, and a big wooden cogwheel. On the wall of the wind mill is a sign in Swedish that says that it is the last point of interest on the trail which started by the school.
Before the village stands a man in the middle of the road with a big camera and films in my direction. I already imagine myself giving an interview about what does a tourist do on Sottunga. 'Eehm, well, I ate raspberries in the forest and broke into a wind mill." But the man doesn't move and continues to film the road that is left empty.
In front of the shop are two boys eating ice-cream. Good idea. But the door is locked. The shop is closed 12-14:30. It's 12:07, no ice-cream.
On the other end of the island is a small harbor with little picturesque piers and a camping area with picnic tables. Too chilly to go swimming, I put on more clothes. Clouds arrive. I read and drowse and then go back to the ferry harbor because there was a sign for restaurant and free WiFi. On the way I stop and check the church door. Outer one is open, the inner one not. Looks like a key was in key hole from inside but I see also carved columns and big ship model hanging from the ceiling. The church has no other doors. There's a ladder going to the roof but climbing on top of a church might not be a local custom so I leave it at that.
In front of the restaurant is a table with chairs, but the door is closed. Nothing new. I sit a while then two Finns come. They manage to get inside and make some kind of deal there. I go to check it out. No, it's closed, no coffee. The lady could offer me accommodation and sauna. But why should I sleep here with an empty stomach.
I discover another eating establishment at harbor. Will be opened at four. Ferry goes 16:15. So I watch life in harbor. Five yachts and a family on motorboat arrive. Kids jump into water from the tower. Six cars form a queue. When the eatery opens, some locals come and discuss that it's nice that tourists on yachts are coming. Yeah, the yachts must be filled with food.
Ships of Silja Line, Tallink and Viking Line go past.
On the wall is a map of the island and there are several hiking trails and campings. On the way I didn't notice any signs leading to them except the one by the school. On the other hand, the camping ground I saw and which is built with the help of EU is not on the map.
Ferry is late. I could have eaten more than just an ice-cream. The ferry is full. Cars are packed in tight but the one which was there first still does not get on. Bookings have priority. A couple of cars also go to Överö so I don't find out if I should of acted earlier to stop there or would it be enough to say so to ferry personnel in harbor.
From ferry I buy two sandwiches and a chocolate for this evening just in case.
On Föglö the air is filled with swarms of small flies and from my left comes loud noise of cranes.
A sign of CC Camping shows a café, open 13-23. Reasonable. They should also rent kayaks. The café only has hamburger. Nearest decent eating place is in Degerby. I didn't plan to go there today. The lady behind counter notices my indecisiveness and promises that hamburger comes with potatoes. Ok, she's trying at least. They don't rent kayaks anymore because the ones they have are old and they don't want any accident to happen. I already played with the thought of staying there but with no kayaks and no food it's not so good idea anymore. And I have the two sandwiches from the ferry. So I accept the hamburger and continue cycling.
There's a public beach in Hastersboda. I still don't get the idea of camping grounds very well. To sleep in a tent in itself is not comfortable. It's a question of civilization. If there's civilization then it's better to sleep in a house. Why should I build a shelter to an over-populated place? With tent it makes sense to me to go somewhere with no other people and civilization.
The beach is there, water is even warm because it's a small bay. A harbor is right next to the beach. Mosquitoes.
A young lady in sports clothes arrives, music machine on her head, stands a bit on the pier and goes back. Smiles friendly. Weird person on the beach with laptop and tent is nothing extraordinary.
On the beach lives a family of ducks, a mouse and a hare. The hare comes very close, runs here and there, panics and I didn't understand until the very end if he saw me or not.
36,2 km cycled today.

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